India to Peru 2012

(Chef A was Ramsey and chef B was Elaine)

The boarder crossing was smooth and we arrived in Phenom Phenh at about 14:00. Upon arrival we met our first Cambodian NBM, he gave us a ride in his tuk tuk (a tiny motor bike with a trailer - surprisingly comfortable though) and waved the fare until 09:00 the following morning as he said he would meet us at the hotel to take us on a tour of the killing fields and genocide museum - "don't worry about the price as I will undercut everyone that you get a quote from today". After relaxing in our brand new hotel room overlooking the palace and national museum we had some beer and food at the hotel. Out of time to visit the palace we recruited a new NBM and got him to take us to Wat Phnom (a chilled place with well kept grounds) and onto the central market.

We spent the rest of the late afternoon strolling by the riverside checking the place out then we took a tuk tuk over to the independence monument so we could see it lit up at night. The evening was capped off with some Angkor beer and a take out pizza (with no cheese!) shared by the banks of the Tonle Sap river.

At 09:00 the next day (day 69 of the tour!) our NBM was sat outside the hotel with a big smile. After looking round the different tour operators we thought his $15 fee was fair so thought we would go along. The first stop was the shooting range. The prices were double those in Vietnam and without a Colt Magnum on offer I was not interested. We then went onto the killing fields. Neither of us knew too much about the Khmer Rouge and the Cambodian genocide before we came here, we had been told about the place by friends but did not know the full background. Listening to the audio tour we heard details of the shocking atrocities committed and at the time felt quite emotional, we developed a new found respect for the strength and resilience of the Cambodian people. We then moved onto the genocide museum in central Phnom Penh, this was where the Khmer Rouge detained and tortured people. It was just as shocking as the killing fields but this time with images of the brutality and walls showing pictures of the faces of the countless number of people condemned.

In the afternoon to lite the mood we went out for some Pho Bo and Cambodian curry then on for a stroll around the palace and its grounds. It is a large complex with some very ornate buildings. It reminded me a little of Wat Po in Bangkok but a little bit more well kept and more spacious - quality over quantity.

That evening we enjoyed beers in the hotel and down by the river. We had come mediocre food but the beer kept us smiling.

At 08:45 the next day we were on the bus to Siem Reap. An uneventful six hour journey and we arrived. We were dropped off on the edge of town and met our third Cambodian NBM. He took us in his tuk tuk to our hotel and did his best all the way to pitch us his Ankor Tour - when we arrived and told him that we had already sorted a guide his face dropped and I felt like I had just kicked him in the balls - anyway, chin up mate there will be another bus of tourists arriving soon! After chilling in the hotel we went out for a stroll around the old town and had a couple of beers on pub street followed by some food down at some of the street vendors (more like restaurants on the pavement) off to the side of pub street - the food was tasty and reasonably priced. Pub street felt a little bit like Magaluf after some of the places we have travelled.

The next day we got up fairly early and took a stroll out to one of the temples on the other side of the river, it was nice and peaceful early in the morning. After some breakfast at a vegetarian cafe we spent the rest of the morning wandering round the different markets and the small back streets in the old town area.

After lunch at a boulangerie we did a bit more shopping then wandered back towards the hotel and on the way I had my second hair cut of the trip (of the 15 minutes it took the guy to cut my hair 12 of them were spent trimming the very edges! - he even gave me a shoulder massage when he was done, not bad for one pound sixty). At 16:00 our guide came pick us up so we could go and watch the sunset at Angkor Wat. After checking out some stupas in the town we bought our fancy photocard passes and headed to Angkor Wat. Sadly the sunset did not amount to much but we got our first look at the beast of a temple. That evening we went to a restaurant that our guide recommended and had some excellent food. Feeling suitably stuffed (as I ate half of Elaine's as well as mine) we retired for an EN as we were due to be up at 04:30 the next day to catch sunrise over Angkor Wat.

Setting off at 05:10 we arrived with the masses at Angkor. The sunrise was ok and we managed to get some resonable shots. We spent a couple of hours at Angkor Wat then moved on to some of the other temples.

Ta Promh was impressive with all of the trees growing around the ruins (stacked with tourists getting photos at the toumb raider spots though).

Our favourite temple was Bayon, it has several towers and sculptured heads and is still in quite good condition - we found it more impressive than Angkor wat.

After lunch we visited the palace and some other temples near by. We finished the day with a trip up to Preah Khan to watch the sunset. The sunset started well with some clouds giving off a rainbow of colours then the big boy clouds moved in and shut down the show.

Overall we really enjoyed the day and felt we could have given another day to the temples. Angkor Wat was not quite as impressive as we expected but the other temples lived up to their billing. The thing that made the day so good was our guide Saron. He was a really friendly chap and full of energy, he has a very indepth knowledge of the temples and the surrounding area and I would strongly recommend anyone going to the temples to give him a call (www.sarontours.com).

Arriving back at our hotel at about 18:30 we were worn out after a busy day. After relaxing a bit we skipped dinner and went straight in for giant ice creams at one of the fancy cafes - just what the doctor ordered. We then had a good few beers down on pub street and took the first tuk tuk that approached us back to our hotel (a 10 minute walk but we thought we would make the most of what may be our last opourtunity to get a tuk tuk).

At 06:30 the following morning Saron came to collect us from our hotel and took us to the airport. A long travelling day was to follow. We first flew to Kualar Lumpar and had a couple of hours to kill before our next flight. We got some cash and at Elaine's request had some dirty McDonnalds for lunch (they Spicy McChicken Deluxe was too spicy for Elaine!). The next flight took us onto Medan in Sumatra for about 14:00. We were greeted at the airport by our driver (I enjoyed having my name written on a board) and we set off on a 3.5 hour journey to Biwkit Lawang on the fringe of the Gunung Leuser national park. We arrived at about 18:00 and felt the need for a beer after 12 hours of traveling. We spent the evening relaxing at our lodge and enjoying some great local food. It was a nice change to be surrounded by rainforest next to a river - very peaceful. Our room that evening backed onto a waterfall and the soothing sound induced a wonderful nights sleep.

Up at 07:00 the next day we prepared our day packs for our two day trek, and had some breakfast. At 09:00 we set off on our trek. Biwkit Lawang translates to mean gateway to the hills. After crossing the river on a very wabbly little boat we made our way up a very steep hill to the Orangutang re-introduction centre. We saw a huge alpha male and a mother with child, very impressive.

After watching them for half an hour or so we set off to tackle some more hills. We spent the morning going up and down, seeing various different insects (some massive ants as big as my thumb), birds and some gibbons. We had a lunch of spicy rice down by a small stream in the middle of the jungle and then continued up hill to the highest point on our trek - on the way up we spotted a funny looking bug that our guide could not identify, a bit like a squashed beetle/crab with boxing gloves for front legs.

We took a very steep decent down to the river and made the crossing to our campsite with Elaine on a big tube and the guide and I steering it accross. The guide advised me to get in the tube but I wanted to have a go at walking accross - half way accross I knew why he wanted me in the tube, the river was very strong and you had to go with the flow to get across and not get swept away. I had a couple of hairy moments but made it across in one piece and had good fun doing it.

The camp was basic but comfortable and we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing by the river and having the odd swim.

By late afternoon it started to rain, this drew out a giant monitor lizzard (nearly 2m long) that we saw down by the river. It also roused the leaches and the other people in our camp were being eaten while Elaine and I were left alone by the blood suckers to play our game of cards. After dinner and several cups of ginger tea everyone went to bed and I took this as my que to go off on a mini night trek looking for bugs in the forest by myself. I only went about 40m from the camp but managed to come across some cool frogs, moths, beetles, spiders, bats, leaches and even a jumgle cockroach - nice. I managed to get some shots but without Elaines skills to help me out I struggled a bit!

The following day were were both up early feeling a little stiff thanks to the very hard floor. After a wash in the river and some breakfast our guide stumbled across a big millipede by the edge of the camp which I had great fun holding and having a close look at.

After a bit more chill time we set off on a short trek to a nearby waterfall - I say short but we spent the first hour walking/scaling up a very steep and densely covered hill, the next half hour traversing accross the hill side through thick vegetation and over ravines and then the following 45 minutes walking/climbing down an even steaper hill than we climbed up in the first place - great fun! Once at the waterfall we took some time to paddle and swim and saw a very well camoflaged frog as big as my fist. We then took a tube down the river back to our campsite for some lunch (5 minutes down the river!). After lunch the guide tied togeter three tubes and strapped our gear on board. With our guide on the back, his mate in the front and Elaine and I in the middle we se off down the rapids back to Biwkit Lawang. We were instantly soaked as a huge wave of white water slapped us in the face and brought about huge smiles. The next half hour rafting down the river was great fun with the guide and his mate directing us into the the toughest rapids and making sure we got throughly soaked and thrown about - a great way to end our treking/camping trip.

Back at our guesthouse we spent the afternoon relaxing after a busy day and a half - I made the most of the hammock on our balcony over looking the river while Elaine sat in the cafe drinking lemon tea. After a snooze we had a tasty evening meal and went back to the room early to relax some more among the sounds of the jungle and the river.

After a lay in the next day we had some breakfast and went out for a stroll around the village. It is a very small and picturesque place along the banks of Bohorok river.

While walking into town we got confronted by a troop of monkeys and when I stood my ground and stuck out my chest all of the big males came wandering over and we had a bit of a stare down. With my adrenaline pumping we slowly walked away and luckily did not get jumped on. After checking out the village we strolled back past our accomodation towards the jungle to check out a big waterfall, we never actually made it there though as we got distracted along the way by the countless number of butterflies including one that had each wing as big as my hand - no photo of this one though as it never landed. After some lunch we set off back to Medan. An uneventful journey saw us arrive at our hotel in the city at 18:30. We spent the evening relaxing in our room, had some dinner at the hotel and took a short stroll around near our hotel - Medan did not feel like a very safe place to wander round at night as there were lots of groups of blokes staring very intently as we strolled around. Time for an EN!

The next day we got up late again and spent the morning relaxing around the hotel (well needed after making the most of the buffet breakfast) and using the internet to research the next stage of our trip. After our 12:00 checkout we went for a stroll around the city to take in some of the sights; as recommended in our tourist brochure we went to see a water tower (wow), a mosque and a palace (with a corrigated iron roof - painted gold I'll have you know!).

As it was really hot in the city and we only had a few hours to kill we made our way to a nice big shopping mall to relax in the A/C. We both picked up some Jeans in preparation for NZ and enjoyed a spicy lunch followed by some ice cream. We took a side car tuk tuk back to the hotel (I think it may be actually our final tuk tuk of the trip - not too sure about South America though) and made our way to the airport. After working our way though the most primitive airport we have visited so far we were on our way to Singapore. Arriving late we took the MRT to the city centre and found our hostel with ease. That evening, feeling a little tired we went out for a stroll for a couple of hours and enjoyed some street food.

The following day I was up early and Elaine enjoyed a little lie in. To make the most out of our short time in the city we bought tickets for one of the city tour buses. First stop the marina where we watched some dragon boat racing, we then took a stroll round China Town and went onto Little India for our final lunch of the Asia leg of our tour - it felt appropriate for it to be Indian - the food was the best we have had in a long time. We then tried to get our money's worth with the tickets and took on a full lap of the bus tour, with a brief stop off at the Singapore Flyer to enjoy some gelatto (I forgot to vass up before paying for that one - owch!) and a look at the F1 pits and part of the track. Back at our hostel we finished this blog update and then made our way to the airport for our flight to Christchurch New Zealand.

(we had some issues uploading pics - so sorry no pics for Singapore)

We have had a great time travelling through Cambodia and Sumatra - we would really like to go back to Indonesia to see more of it as we were only there for a few days - the food was good and the people were almost as friendly as the Indians! Cambodia was worthy of more time and the people there were the most welcoming in all of mainland South East Asia.

Goodbye Asia, hello Australasia!!!.......

Following our time in Luang Prabang and Laos we caught a flight to Hanoi to begin our adventures in Vietnam. We arrived at the airport expecting to see my name in lights as we were due to be picked up and taken to the hotel, but there was nobody there at the arrival gate. After waiting 10 minutes we realized that there was a gate A and gate B so Ramsey hot-footed it to the other gate and there was the man waiting for us. It was a 45 minute journey into the centre of Hanoi. Our hotel was located in the old quarter where we had a very warm greeting by the hotel staff. Ramsey unfortunately had a bad night, again testing his "gut management" skills.

Next morning Ramsey wasn't feeling much better so I took a walk around Hanoi so that he could get some rest. The hotel supplied me with a map but instead of the 10 minutes it was meant to take me to walk to the lake, it actually took me almost an hour - need to improve my map reading skills! Mid afternoon I arrived back at the hotel where Ramsey was starting to feel better. We booked a tour for the following day to take us to Halong Bay for a three day trip then went out for an evening wander round the city. We walked down to the lake - which took the suggested 10 minutes with the map in Ramsey's hands, then walked to the French quarter which was a little less hectic than the old town, eventually stopping at a little restaurant for some noodle soup and spring rolls.

Next day we woke up to find grey clouds and Halifax style drizzle (only it was still 30 degrees). By the time the we arrived at Halong Bay the rain had stopped but the clouds remained.

Once aboard out junk we were given a massive lunch while we sailed out in to the bay. The first stop was a huge cave (10,00m sq) that was used as a hideout during the war.

This was followed by an hour of leisurely canoeing round the bay. Complimentary wine and fruit was served upon our return.

The evening meal was not quite up to the standard of lunch and a evening was whiled away trying to catch squid and playing cards. The next day we were up early for breakfast and then took a short trip to 'James Bond Island'. We took a small boat to a little floating office with loads of people queuing for rowing boats. After 20 minutes we got our boat and were paddled through a little cove in to a sheltered bay, fifteen minutes later we were on our way back - what a load of tosh (at least it was better than sitting on the boat for the morning though).

Next stop was a 'Floating Pearl Village' where they implant beads in to Oysters (to make them grow pearls) and farm them - the owner took great offense when I asked him if the sold any naturally occurring pearls. We then switched on to a smaller boat and headed to 'Monkey Island' where we saw lots of cheeky monkeys messing around and enjoying some cabbage provided by our guide.

We then moved on to Cat Ba Island. We had a 4km bike ride round the picturesque Island to a small village where we would say the night in huts.

In the afternoon we went on a short walk to a cave and did some bug spotting. The camp was very peaceful and a nice place to spend some time.

Day three of the tour we are up early again to cycle back to the harbor for pickup by the boat. We didn't really do much apart from swap boats then cruise back to the Harbor (at which point the Halifax Drizzle joined us again). A poor lunch preceded the four hour ride back to Hanoi. We then had thirty minutes to grab some snacks before we boarded the night bus to Hue.

After eventually finding a spare seat on the bus we laid back and contemplated what the next 13 hours would be like. Quite simple really - not much sleep, sore shoulders, cramp in my feet and a general feeling of discontentment. After 15 hours we arrived in Hue at 10:00 the following day. We quickly found a place to stay with an average room but a pool to make up for it. We chilled around the pool having drinks and lunch for the rest of the morning and early afternoon. By late afternoon we were ready to head out to the town. We walked down the the old town and to the citadel but it was just closing. We decided to take a 1 hour cyclo tour of the old town - this was quite good fun with the driver (cyclo) pointing out some interesting sights and even a place to chow down on some dog!

We were dropped off back at the citadel and found that it was reopening as tonight was the last night of a four day music and dance festival and the finale was taking place inside. We each bought a ticket for 60,000d (about 1.80GBP) and headed in. The grounds inside the citadel were huge and were tastefully illuminated with candles and lanterns. We enjoyed some good local beer and food then went to see some entertainment. The music was a bit on the Eurovision side and the dancing was more comical then entertaining. After a couple of hours Elaine was still having a good time however, while I appreciated the ambiance of the setting my face and ears were starting to melt off. In a bit to relieve my pain we headed out and to a slow stroll through the city back to the hotel.

Up early the next day we sorted our accommodation for Hoi An then hired some bikes and went out to find some pagodas. The roads were mental and while I enjoyed bullying my way through the traffic Elaine was not quite so happy. After seeing a couple of pagodas, gaining a few gray hairs and loosing about three kilos of body weight through sweat we headed back to the hotel. A quick lunch (the worst sandwich I have had on the trip) was had before we boarded the bus to Hoi An at 13:30. Oh joy, another sleeper bus. Three and a half hours laid down on vinyl seats and me and my sweaty back (speaking for myself and not Elaine) arrived in Hoi An. Pitching for convenience as opposed to personal safety we took motorcycle taxis to our accommodation at the other side of town. After relaxing in out giant room we spent the evening strolling round the chilled (albeit very touristy) old town centre. We had an average meal of local specialties (blame the chef and not the dishes) that evening and settled for a relatively early night relaxing in the room.

Following morning, after the best hotel breakfast we have had so far, we headed out into the town for a stroll. Went to a couple of tailors where Ramsey considered buying a suit and I considered buying a dress - but ultimately decided against it, and after stopping in a few more shops we decided to retire from the heat in a nice bar for a cold drink and a bite to eat. Ramsey ordered a baguette and I got a salad - which turned out to be some of the nicest food we have had so far. We then decided we were in the mood for some BOGOF cocktails, which were also very good.

We headed back to the hotel where we spent some time relaxing by the pool. Later that evening we met some friends we met on the Halong Bay boat trip for dinner - David and Elke who live in Germany. After a beer we decided on a curry restaurant which had been recommended, which was a nice change to noodles and rice.

Next day we met David and Elka again for a trip to the Marble Mountains - five limestone and marble hills (although you can only walk up one) where there are pagodas and caves to explore. Ramsey had lots of fun climbing in the caves and the final largest cave was very impressive. It was a really pleasant place to spend the morning.

In the afternoon we decided to rent a moped and head down to the beach which was about 4km away. After Ramsey had had a practice run we set off. First we fired down to Cua Di Beach which is the main tourist beach. After about 5 minutes of sun the clouds moved in, it was still warm but it is not so much fun sitting on the beach while it when it is cloudy. We decided to jump back on the moped and head down to An Bang beach - the locals beach (plus this would give us the opportunity to get our monies worth with the fuel that we paid for!) We took a stroll down the beach and decided that it would be the place to spend the following afternoon when the sun was shining. We then had a bez around the town centre on the moped - riding the moped was good fun.

That evening we were both a bit tired from all the climbing and running around of the morning. We found a small place selling Bia Thoi for 15p a glass, and good local food - we ordered a hot pot which came served in a massive bowl with a load of hot charcoal in the middle - having it on the table in front of us made us sweat but the food tasted excellent.

On our third day in Hoi An it was time for a cooking course. We had been recommended the course at the Morning Glory restaurant run by Ms Trinh Diem Vy (The Rick Stein of Hoi An) so booked for the morning course, including market tour. Firstly we were taken round the local market and stopped at a fruit store where we tried some fruit, we then stopped at a spice store and finally a fish store - where they had the biggest mackerel I had ever seen!

Back at the restaurant it was time to cook, and we were a little disappointed to find out that another group would be joining the market tour group - which made a class of around 20 people. We cooked cabbage soup with shrimp parcels, fresh spring rolls, crispy pancakes and grilled fish with mango salad (try and guess who is chef A and who is chef B...).

A.) B.)
A.) B.)
A.) B.)
A.) B.)

The recipes were really good so the food we cooked was delicious. Some of the ingredients were already prepared which was a little disappointing, and with the class size so big it felt a little rushed, but we will hopefully be able to cook some of the dishes when we get home. In the afternoon we jumped back on the moped and headed down to Cua Di Beach for some sun bathing - as soon as we got on the bike the clouds came over... again! Once we got to the beach we spotted some grey clouds in the distance which were slowly coming nearer and nearer. We realised we would have to make our escape or sit out the impending rain - we decided to sit it out. The rain shower quickly turned into a massive storm - we were taken in by some locals to shelter in their hut where all the shutters were banging and the wind was blowing everything around outside - it was pretty exciting for us. An hour later the rain started to ease and we made our way back to the moped - stopping to take some good photos on the way (unfortunately I didn't bring my good camera with me as we were planning to be on the beach).

We went down to the river front for our final meal then stopped at a cafe for excellent cake and cocktails.

Following morning we were picked up from the hotel and taken to the airport (the driver took great pride in pointing out his brand new car and letting us know we were the first customers to ride in it!) for our flight to Saigon. Arriving at Saigon and eventually working out where the bus into the centre would stop we hopped on board for towards the centre. Finding our guesthouse was easy thanks to the training we received on how to cross roads in Hanoi (without that training we would still be waiting to cross the road now!). That afternoon we visited the local Pho house (noodle soup) as recommended by our host and had an excellent lunch for three squid all in! We then strolled down to the Ben Thanh Market to checkout what was on offer.

While shopping for chopsticks we bumped in to Dave and Elke. After finishing our shopping we all headed off to a fancy bar for cocktails - Vodka Martini (shaken not stirred) and a Singapore Sling. Feeling a little under-dressed we headed off to a local joint to sample a plethora of steamed and fried spring rolls - I thought they were spot on but Elaine was not too sure about the steamed ones. After the food we took a leisurely stroll back through the local park to our guesthouse, scouting out a bakery near where we were staying for a future cake stop.

Following an extensive overview of the map from our friendly host on the second day we headed out for our own walking tour of the sights (or at least some of them) of Saigon. First up was a visit to the Ho Chi Minh City Museum - this was billed as giving a detailed overview of the industrial and commercial history of Saigon while also revealing some secrets about some of the tactics used during the Vietnam war - in reality the building was very grand and the exhibits did not live up to their surroundings. We learnt a little and enjoyed time out of the sweltering heat. Overall worth the 50p entrance fee!

All the main sights in Saigon adhere to the Vietnamese extended lunch (11:30-14:00), so while everything was shut we took the time to stroll down to the river front (not much to see), loose about 2 pints of sweat then stop for the best iced coffee and tea of the entire trip (the place where we stopped claimed to have invented iced coffee!). Following some chill time in another of Saigon's numerous parks we headed onto the War Remnants Museum, which was a somber experience seeing all the chilling and graphic images. After some chill time at the hotel we headed out for a walk round the city and found ourselves at the night market where a big food stall was just setting up - two giant grills had been lit with giant prawns cooking away - we were sold!

Next day we were up early for a trip to the Chu Chi Tunnels where we saw a black and white propaganda film telling us how evil the Americans were, before being shown some of the weapons and traps that were used by the Viet Cong. We were taken to see one of the entrances of the tunnels - which was so small Ramsey didn't dare try fitting in it!

We then went through a 100m stretch of tunnel which had been widened so that Westeners could fit down it - although some parts had been left dark and quite small to give a sense of what it was like living down there. As part of the tour we got shown some of the different traps that he VC used - nasty. Next stop was the shooting range , Elaine was not interested but I had fun blasting off 10 shots on an AK47. It was an interesting trip with an entertaining guide. In the afternoon we went for a late lunch (linner) at KFC - which Ramsey has waited two months for, but was ultimately disappointed. After our late lunch we weren't really hungry for dinner so after a stroll round the markets had some cake and beer and called it a day.

We were picked up at 07:00 the following day for our Mekong Delta tour. The tour got off to a bad start as the boat broke down before we even set off and we had to swap onto a bus. It was soon back on track though as we took a tour round a small village visiting a bee farm and tasting some of the honey. We then took a short boat trip in little canoes down some of the most congested waterways I have ever seen.

Next stop was a coconut candy workshop where we sampled some of the delights. Lunch was awful - the worst food of the trip (I paid for it so I ate it though!). After lunch we enjoyed some green tea and fresh fruit while listening to some local folk music (a bit of a cringe worthy experience). That evening we had a home stay in Vinh Long. We both enjoyed helping prepare dinner and the locals enjoyed my chopping skills. Dinner was an absolute feast - we (I) ate it all and felt like I had tackled a triple Kobeeda!

Up early the next day we went to the local floating market, it was good to see but quiet as it was wholesale only and we just cruised round the edge.

We then went to see a rice paper factory and a soya bean sauce factory (different to soy sauce), the ladies making the rice paper three at a time had some real skill.

We stopped for lunch at the village we had stayed at the previous night, we got a fried elephant ear fish which you make up into fresh spring rolls at the table - it didn't look fantastic but tasted great. After lunch we went out on a leisurely cycle of the local village (but still extremely sweaty as it was about 40 degrees!). I was not content with the level of activity required so I went out by myself afterwards and hammered 5km out. Arriving back 20 minutes later and covered with so much sweat it looked like I'd had a shower I was content. While I was out working up a sweat Elaine was having a snooze in a hammock! That afternoon we traveled by bus on to Can Tho. After checking in to our hotel we had some excellent food down by the river. Feeling a little tired after a busy day we returned to the hotel for an EN.

Up at 05:45 the next day we packed our bags and I went out in search for some breakfast (not included on our tour and too tight to pay the hotel prices), after working up a sweat stomping round for 15minutes I eventually found a little old lady selling fresh baguettes. Nice. We set off to the floating market at 07:00. The Can Tho floating market is the biggest in Vietnam, having said that it was again a little quiet.

The highlight was stopping for a whole fresh pineapple (we we took great joy in devouring a whole half each - PJDOC) and sampling some fresh iced coffee from a seller that cruised up to our boat on their little boast.

After the market we visited a rice noodle factory and a rice de-husking factory - the tour guide pointed out several times that they they export the brown rice as they like to eat white things (rice Nazis!). Back in Can Tho we had 3.5 hours to kill before our bus arrived (it was four but Elaine spent the first half hour moaning about the wait while we sat in the shade by the river). Our free time was spent using the internet and enjoying iced coffees. On route to Chau Doc we stopped off at a crocodile breeding centre (they bread them for meat and to make shoes). The crocs looked happy enough but the highlight was seeing some Spider Monkeys and a porcupine, the monkeys were having great fun teasing a big turkey type bird in the bottom of their cage while it tried to jump up and peck them. We arrived in Chau Doc late and checked into our floating hotel (a bit grotty). Having been given no map of the place and no general pointers we went out on a wander of the rather disappointing town, we eventually found a place for a couple of beers and some Pho Bo.

Following a poor nights sleep we got up early to set out on a brief tour of the surrounding area.

We visited a floating fish farm (a bit smelly but good fun watching the fish go in to a frenzy when they were fed) and a Cham village.

At 09:30 we boarded the fast boat to take us on to Phnom Phen in Cambodia.....

Vietnam was a nice country and the people were really friendly (though it was quite evident that they know how to milk a tourist. We would have liked to spend some more time there to check out a few other places such as the Sapa Hills, Ninh Binh and Mui Ne. Definitely on the list for a return visit; if not for the places we missed, for the food and people alone.

At the end of the last update I mentioned my guts - my management skills were seriously put to the test as I had to rest up at the guest house in Bangkok for a couple of days. I did try and venture out to Khao San road on the afternoon of our second day in Bangkok (just after writing the last update) but just as soon as we arrived I felt the immediate need to waddle as quickly as possible back to the guesthouse. On our third day I went in search for some pharmaceutical assistance and found salvation in some charcoal tablets. By the evening I was feeling much better and we took a stroll around the Khao San road area and checked out some of the bars and shops - even though I did feel a bit better I was not ready for Thai food - at the end of the night I took a walk of shame back to the guest house with a Subway 6in in hand!

The following day we took a flight down to Krabi on the Andaman coast (while at the airport my gut began reawakening but I felt the need to play it safe and indulged in dirty BK Whopper!). On arrival we caught the bus to Ao Nang. We spent the afternoon wandering round the small slightly touristy town, checking out the beach, enjoying some Haagen Dazs (which complimented the previous days Subway and the earlier Burger King well) and then having a reasonable Thai evening meal.

Early the next day we took a long-tail boat across to Railay for our five days of relaxation - it was a short 20 minute trip down the coast.

Railay is part of the mainland but is out on a little peninsula. It has a three nice beaches and good access to nearby islands including Phi Phi. We arrived on Railay West beach and then took a five minute stroll over to Railay East to find some accommodation - The East 'beach' is mainly mangroves and mud but is quite picturesque.

After finding our accommodation for the next five nights (a collection of huts up the hillside) we needed some chill time - it was hot. By early afternoon we were ready for some food and the beach. Sadly, just after we finished our mediocre Thai meal a thunder storm rolled in and washed out the rest of the afternoon. We took haven in the restaurant back at our huts and had some beers while the storm passed.

That evening we took a stroll around East Railay and surveyed the food and drink options. We had another mediocre Thai meal with a green curry that was more like coconut soup and fried noodles that were more like over cooked porridge.

We took our time getting up the next day (trying to get in to the chilled beach frame of mind). We spent the morning and early afternoon soaking up rays on Railay West beach and enjoying swimming in the crystal clear waters while looking up at the surrounding limestone cliffs - Tres Bien! Finally some good food was had for lunch by the beach. After enough sun to give a base coat we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing at the hut with some beers and books. Early evening we went exploring to find Pranang Beach (on the tip of the peninsula)

This involved a walk down a small path under the overhanging limestone cliffs and a close encounter with a small troop of monkeys. A relaxed stroll on the beach was followed by yet another disappointing meal down at Railay East - the seafood was so overcooked we actually sent it back! To raise the mood after the poor food we stopped for cocktails on the way back to the hut.

The next day was another chilled one with sunbathing on Pranang Beach. Again the weather started to turn early afternoon so we headed back towards our accommodation.

All the relaxing on beaches had got a bit much for Ramsey by this point so with water and a camera in hand he headed off to climb some rocks up to a viewpoint and lagoon. One hour later he returned covered in mud and sweat with a big smile on his face!

After an OK evening meal we went for a drink at a bar that had a live Muay Thai fight scheduled for later that evening. Quite entertaining, a spinning backfist and downward elbow strike or two to the top of the head - Nice.

Following day we set off on a kayak to some nearby islands. After an hour and half of paddling we found a hidden little cove where we swam in the clear sea with some fish before setting off again.

We paddled round the islands some more, then with tired shoulders and some sunburn we returned back to Railay after five hours out on the sea. Tiring but good fun.

As the first day since we had arrived that it hadn't clouded over in the evening we decided to take advantage and headed to West Railay beach for the sunset - unfortunately a cloud came over at just the wrong time! Nevertheless we had a nice meal overlooking the beach before calling it a day.

Our final day on Railay we planned a speedboat trip over to Phi Phi and round a few of the islands. A route followed by many but it was still good fun and we had a very amusing guide. We visited Maya Bay (where The Beach was filmed) along with dozens of other people, and had some time to do some snorkeling off the boat. I couldn't get the hang of snorkeling but Ramsey said he saw loads of fish. The guide picked a Sea Urchin and Sea Cucumber out of the sea which Ramsey held. It was a good trip out.

In the evening Ramsey tried the island's hairdresser - with good results, before we were served two spicy green curries at the bar next door. A couple of games of pool and a few Beer Chang finished our last evening in Railay.

After lunch the next day we left on a long-tail boat and headed towards Krabi Town. It was really just a stop off point for our morning flight the following day but we walked down to the local night market and enjoyed some food, roti (Thai pancakes) and some odd little coconut cakes.

We arrived back in Bangkok the next day early afternoon. We had planned on getting a night train that evening but because we didn't end up seeing much of the city last time we were there, we decided to slot an extra day in. This time however we stayed in the Sukumvit area for the transport links. For the rest of the day we just checked out the local area, stopping for lunch and walking round a park. In the evening we tried out a local night market recommended to us and had some very good food (Ramsey especially enjoyed a crispy belly pork dish). Following day we went out for some breakfast before getting on the sky train to the river to head to Wat Pho. Impressive complex which also houses a large gold reclining budha - the largest in the world.

With time and baht restraints we decided to skip the palace and instead took a walk down to Chinatown before jumping on the underground back to Sukumvit. There we found a shopping mall so Ramsey could purchase some much needed shorts (it has been noted that my purchases have been from street sellers and Ramsey's from a fancy Bangkok mall!). We had our final meal in Bangkok, along with some cocktails (thanks Ang!) then headed to the train station for our overnight train up to Nong Khai before crossing into Laos the following day.

After our train pulled into the station two hours late we were stamped out of Thailand and jumped on another train to take us across the Friendship Bridge and into Laos. 40 minutes later, Laos visas in hand and down to our last few baht we shared a Tuk Tuk into the centre of Vientiane and quickly found some accommodation for the next couple of nights. We quickly spotted a cafe selling coffee, pastries and cakes and enjoyed our first Laos experience of the French influence in the country. We spent some time booking a bicycle tour for the following morning then went to see the Patuxai (Arc de Triomphe look-alike) before going for our fist meal in Laos. Food was good and Ramsey was so hungry he ordered two main courses!

Following day we went on our bike tour of the city; the tours are arranged and run by a Dutch couple who live in Vientiene. We opted for the half day tour as we only had limited time in the city, but as we met at 8am and didn't finish until 2pm it was very good value. The tour took us through the back streets, markets and temples - stopping for water and fruit breaks. The tour ended at a temple with a traditional Laos meal cooked by a local lady - excellent food. We really enjoyed the tour and just wanted to give a quick shout out as they are a fairly new setup (http://vientianebycycle.com).

After freshening up we jumped on a tuk tuk to Budah Park - 25kms out of the city. It is a fairly small park full mostly with statues of Budah. The place wasn't as big as we expected and I didn't really think it was worth the trip out of the city (although Ramsey enjoyed it more than I did). That evening we went for some food at a restaurant run by a French man and I enjoyed my first taste of wine since we have been away - very good end to our time in Vientiene.

Our tuk tuk arrived to collect us at 9:30am the following morning to take us to our coach heading for Vang Vieng. Four hours later we arrived and were offered accomodation as soon as we got off the coach. Went to see the room and thought it was pretty good for 5 pounds a night. Upon venturing into the town we found it awash with bars playing Famly Guy and Friends, we also found the establishment providing rental of tubes (tractor inner tubes) for a trip down the river. We set off on our tubing adventure in a tuk tuk with the tyres strapped to the roof. Down at the river there were bars packed with lots of people getting drunk before they even got on the tubes - nice. After the realisation of the fact that this place was exactly what we thought it would be like, we decided when in rome! We set off and bypassed the first section of bars. As you floated down guys were trying to reel you in with a bottle on a rope - fishing for tubers. We stoped at a place with a massive swing and a couple of beers and some spray paint later we continued the journey. We soon realized that we did not not have much time to complete the course so the rest of the journery was spent floating and paddling down to the end where we were pulled ashore by some young lads for a little tip. The day was capped of with a giant auzzie burger and a beer to celebrate our sucess (after a cheeky stop for some Family Guy, when in Rome!).

One day was enough so next morning we hopped on an early minibus to take us to Luang Prabang. Unfortunaly the driver was very reluctant to turn the AC on so it was a sweltering six hour journey! We were greeted at the bus stop by one of the guest house owners so we went to take a look at his rooms. Clean, good vaue and with a balcony - good enough for us. Spent the remainder of the day gettting to know the town. Following a lazy morning we went out for some brunch - some good coffee and chicken sandwiches. We then went to hire some bikes so we could have a leisurly cycle round the town - 80p to hire a bike for the day we thought was good value! Our route was disruped on several occasions by the local kids throwing water at us (and by us I mean me, not Ramsey!) It is the new year in Laos in a few days and every year the children do this - it is only cups of water but I ended up soaked! We stopped at a French cafe with chairs in the sun so I could dry off a bit. In the evening we we went upto a stupa on top of a hill for an awesome sunset view.

And now it is today. We were up at sunrise to go and watch the locals give alms to the monks. Unfortunatly there were more tourists than locals and it looked to have turned into a tourist attraction. We found a side street where there were less people so we could respectfully watch from a distance. Is a shame we couldn't have seen it 20 years ago. After breakfast we walked back to our hotel and then the rain came! We were picked up from our hotel and taken to an elephant village where we went on an elephant ride in the rain with umbrellas! Ramsey sat at the front where the mahout sits and afterwards we fed our elephant (Pancake) bananas. We then bathed with the elephants in the river where we both got soacked! It was all really good fun as it was very hands on with the elephants - unlike our elephant safari in the jungle.

In the afternoon we went to visit some waterfalls where there are pools for swimming in - only had just over an hour so not really enough time to fully appreciate the place. Would have been a nice place to spend an afternoon but with limited time an hour was better than nothing. We are now off our for dinner then tomorrow we fly to Hanoi.

Next stop Varanasi... we arrived in Varanasi early afternoon and went on a guided walk of the city early evening. The tour took us to the main ghats (loads of steps by the river) and then on to one of the burning ghats where cremations were taking place - very surreal to watch a cremation taking place where you can actually see the body on the fire - felt inappropriate being there.

The next day we woke up very early so we could take a boat trip down the river and watch sunrise over the city. Post sunrise a toilet break on the far bank of the river provided the perfect opportunity to get some Wing Chun practice in. I also stumbled upon a hungry dog feasting on the remains of a partially successful cremation - lovely start to the day.

After the visit to the pedigree chum factory we boarded rickshaws and took a very bumpy ride to Sarnath. This was the site where the Buddha held his first sermon after achieving enlightenment. The monastery on the site was very peaceful however the nearby archeological museum left little to be desired (one sign said: 'carved head of bird - believed to be pigeon').

A chilled afternoon drinking coffee and checking out some shops was followed by a sunset boat cruise/personal flower ceremony on the river. Once out on the river we lit loads of candles and sent them floating off - we made a wish for someone else (couldn't be for ourselves) for each candle we floated on the river, then if they managed to reach one of the banks the wish will come true. After watching half of a 'traditional' Hindu sunset ceremony (they know how to string it out a bit!) we headed back to shore for pizza and pasta (when in Rome !?!).

The following day it was time for the monster jeep (actually battered old SUV) ride up to the border with Nepal. Setting off at 06:00 we arrived at the border for about 14:00. One passport stamp and $25 later, bang we were in Nepal. Onto a small bus and 1.5 hours more driving to get to Lumbini. Once we arrived at our very peaceful accommodation we had the option to go to a Buddhist stupa, but after a long day traveling everyone minced out and as a result Ramsey headed out for a late evening bike ride to the traditional part of the village (everyone in the village looked really happy and the sunsets over the rice paddies were awesome - I forgot to take the camera but Elaine got some good pics from the hotel! - R)

Up early the following morning to go to see the birthplace of Buddha. The site has a circumference of 2.5 miles. There are loads of temples there built by different countries and Buddhist sects overtime - a bit like 'Temples 'r' Us' - your one stop shop for enlightenment. This being said the atmosphere was again very peaceful and the place very well kept.

Following breakfast we jumped back on the bus for a 4 hour bus ride to the Chitwan National Park. When we arrived at our base we were introduced to our guide and discovered that we were staying in some very nice wooden lodges while we were there. In the afternoon we were taken on a bike ride of one of the local villages - interesting to see how they lived. In the evening we went to a very nice rooftop restaurant with two for one cocktails!

Next day we set off on our trek into the park. We started on a dugout canoe where we spotted lots of different birds and much to Ramsey's delight Gharial and Mugger crocodiles.

After a 1.5 hour canoe ride we set off trekking into the park - our group was split into two with two guides per group. The hunt for wild animals had begun! Our guides did a good job of climbing trees and following trails to find our first rhinos of the day - a mother and baby. Following that we spotted many more rhinos and some deer, but unfortunately no elephants or tigers. It was an overcast day and after being caught in a rain shower we headed towards our camp for the night. Camp was a small set of huts with basic but comfortable accommodation. The electricity was off for most of the evening but we were still provided with a very nice dinner by candlelight. A camping style EN followed.

Next day after porridge and banana pancakes, we set off on a 1 hour walk to a crocodile rehabilitation centre. We saw Gharial crocodiles of all sizes (including a giant male with a bulbous snout), there were also a couple of Mugger crocodiles and a cameo from a big boy spider.

A bumpy jeep ride through small villages then followed to take us back to our base for lunchtime.

That afternoon we went on an elephant safari through the National Park. The route took us through a couple of rivers where the elephants had chance for a good drink and while in the trees we found ourselves right next to two rhinos (so much for the views on the walk!), we also spotted some more deer. It was a fun ride, although a little uncomfortable; 1.5 hours was certainly enough!

An early start the next day to take us to our final destination on the tour - Kathmandu. A five hour bus ride later and we had gone from chilled out village to city smog. As soon as we arrived at our hotel in Thamel we thought we would take a stroll 'round the block' before our planned orientation walk... an hour later we declared we were lost and had to re-trace our steps back which made us 15 minutes late. Found out later we were just 2 minutes round the corner! The day finished with a walk round Thamel and some bad Mexican food! Following day we got up and went to a bakery/coffee shop for breakfast, then on to visit two Buddhist stupas; one being the largest in Nepal. Both were very busy with tourists which gave them a different atmosphere to those we had visited in other places. When we returned to the hotel we walked to Durbar Square to pay our 200 rupees to look around, but when we got there found out it would be 750 rupees - the price of dinner so we opted out. Spent the rest of the afternoon walking round before going out for a farewell dinner with the group. The restaurant had cut out cardboard feet which groups could draw/write on and they were then hung from the ceiling. Ahead of an early start the next day it was an early goodbye.

On the bus to Pokhara for 07:00 the next day. After about nine hours (should have been seven but got stuck in two traffic jams) we arrive. Upon arrival we are instantly greeted by an NBM - we take his reasonably priced accommodation. The weather is a little bit hazy which means we can't see the mountain views around Pokhara. We spend the rest of the day checking out the town. The next day it is hazy again but we decide to go far a walk anyway to the World Peace Pagoda overlooking the valley (renowned for its amazing mountain views) - the walk is good fun and despite not being able to see the mountains we still get a good view of Pokhara and the lake.

We take a boat back to town across the lake and then spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing and eating. Last thing in the evening we need to to make arrangements for the next day; we were planning on taking a pre-dawn taxi up to Sarangkot to watch sunrise over the mountains however due to the hazy weather we change plans and book paragliding for the following day!

A bit of a lie in the next day was followed by a relaxed breakfast. We were then picked up at 11:20 to go paragliding. It was a hot and sunny day and despite the haze was perfect conditions for paragliding. Take off and landing for me were smooth and the experience as a whole was awesome - I had some crazy kiwi called Owen who took us up to 2500m and then performed some hardcore aerobatics over the lake before we came in to land (I was spinning so fast the snot was being pulled out of my nose!). Elaine's experience was not quite as successful, third time lucky on the take off but the landing was smooth, I think the spinning was a bit too much though.

After getting back to the hotel we felt the need for a nice refreshing carbonated beverage and some time to relax. The rest of the day was spent wandering the town looking for the best bargains to be had.

The following day we were on the bus at 07:30 making our way to a town called Dumre. Upon arrival we instantly found a jeep to take us on the next leg of our journey to Bandipur - a 20 minute drive (constantly up hill) and we arrived at the small village on the top of a massive hill. Again we are instantly greeted by an NBM offering the cheapest room of the trip so far (300NPR - 2.40GBP) we check out his rooms and what a surprise, it is a hole. We stroll into town and find somewhere that is less of a hole for the same price with a great view.

That afternoon we take a stroll around the town and walk to a temple on a hill above the town to check out the sunset views.

We had a relatively early night following some poor food. The next day after breakfast we hunt down some transport back to Dumre - our driver is a nice guy and sorts us with the bus onto Kathmandu as well. We arrive in Katmandu at about 18:00. Ramsey's guts are playing up so we spend the rest of the evening in the hotel. The following day some tactical decisions are made about gut management so we can catch our next flight - we get a taxi to the airport and take the flight to Bangkok - goodbye India and Nepal, hello South East Asia! Anther night is spent nursing guts and the following morning we chill at our guest house hiding from the 37 degree heat outside and write this.

We were a little sad to be finishing the first leg of our journey and would like to go back and re-visit both countries again. Nepal was beautiful but because of the weather we didn't get to see it in it's full glory, and India can't possibly be described in just a few words but there were times we both loved and hated the country. India requires a longer stay than just three weeks and with so many more places to visit it definitely deserves another trip.

Thanks for all the comments. It has been good to read them so keep them coming.

We woke up early to catch the train from Alleppey to Cochin, looking forward to AC seat class - missed it. As the slowest rickshaw driver in the world dropped us off at the station, the train pulled away. We hot footed it back to the bus station and immediately jumped on a bus - in the end I think we arrived at the same time the train would have got us there. The first miss of the trip!

We quickly get some accommodation on the mainland in Cochin and then jump on a ferry across to the fort area (right next to Jew Town!). Cochin is a very touristy place. Spent most of the day walking round in the sunshine, doing the odd bit of shopping and taking in the sights We saw the famous Chinese fishing nets and walked through the wonderful smells in the spice market. While in Jew Town we make the first major purchase of the trip - a 1.2mx0.8m oil painting. Shame we don't have a house to put it in at the moment though!! One day is enough in Cochin.

The next day is pretty much taken up by traveling. Car to the airport then an internal flight from Cochin to Delhi (via Mumbai where we sit on the runway for two hours waiting for other passengers). Once we touch down we are greeted by a guy from our hotel with our names on a place-card. After he eventually gets us a taxi (the smallest one he could find) we set off, five minutes down the road he jumps out and waves us goodbye!?! The driver then takes us close to our hotel and kicks us out citing that there is a 'festival on and he can't get any closer', low and behold a cycle rickshaw driver pops up and offers to take us to our hotel for a 'good' price. Delhi is mental - we thought we had experienced Indian traffic but we were not prepared for this. Once at the hotel we decide to go for a quick wander round old Delhi for 30 minutes; one and a quarter hours later we get back to the hotel - tiny back alleys with something going on everywhere you put your eyes on - a real buzz for the senses. All good fun though (apart from Elaine getting hit by a water bomb as part of the Holi celebrations (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holi)). In the evening we met up with Vineet and Farhan from SSP IDC, we have an excellent meal at Zen in Cognaught Place and then check out the Gate of India on the way back to the hotel.

Following breakfast the next day we have another stroll around Old Delhi; slightly quieter than the previous evening. We then travel across town to meet up with our tour group for the trip across North India and onto Nepal. It takes 2 hours to get 5 miles from old Delhi to the hotel meeting point and we arrive 1 hour late for the induction. We then jump straight on the metro and travel back to Old Delhi for some more site seeing!!! Visit a mosque (that we saw all lit up the previous night) and then on to a Sikh temple. Catch a bus (about 40 people on a 12 seat bus) up to the spice market then Metro back to the hotel. We eat in the Intrepid (company our tour is booked with) endorsed restaurant (all westerners eating bland curries - overpriced and disappointing). There are 9 people in our tour group including us - all girls apart from Ramsey.

Next day we catch a 06:30 train onto Agra. As soon as we arrive we go to see the fort - an impressive complex with some distant views of the Taj Mahal.

Following lunch we check into the hotel then go on to the Taj. It is impressive but very busy, too many people to really enjoy the surroundings - also the gardens are not quite as well kept as I would expect. One to tick off the list.

Once we get back to the hotel we find evidence of another visitor in our room - a rat. I have a word with the manager on the QT and he assures us the room will be fully cleaned and is very apologetic. After 1.5 hours we are told the room is ready. I double check that they have cleaned the room and they assure me it is clean. Back in the room I find the same rat droppings and half chewed soap - the cleaners run up and start apologizing before I even open my mouth. I make them aware that their conduct is not acceptable and I proceed to let the manager have it!! We then get about 10 members of staff cleaning our room and have it back within 20 minutes.

Next morning we head to Orchha on an early morning train. We arrive around lunchtime and after grabbing some scran we go on an orientation walk of the town. Orchha is only a small place, but has 22 temples and 6 palaces. Our accommodation comprises of 'luxury tents' - not quite what we would call camping as they came fully equipped with fridges, tvs and a swimming pool! Some of the nicest accommodation we have had so far! Had a relaxing evening with beer and some curry.

Next morning a trip to three of the palaces is planned - Elaine has come down with a cold so opts out of the trip. The palaces were quite impressive - one took 22 years to build and was only used for one day!

Spend the rest of the day wandering round the town and checking out some of the temples. Following day is another chilled out one - Orchha is a relaxed little place so it was nice to have some down time. In the evening we go to a food demonstration - an Indian lady cooked a meal while we watched, which we then got to eat. The food was really good (Ramsey had three plates full) and Ramsey picked up some top tips! We were then onto a night train to Allahbad.

After a fairly sleepless night on the train (for Elaine) we are on our way to the Ganges for a boat trip. Today is Holi so everyone we pass on the bus is covered in coloured paint. The bus gets hit several times and someone tries to get into the bus to get us! We are a little disappointed that we are not able to stay and join in the celebrations. Our transport on the Ganges is three 'sail' boats - two for us and one for the kitchen crew. We spend the day sailing down the Ganges (we see some dolphins in the river) - lunch is eaten on the boat then we pull over at sunset and camp on the bank of the river. A swarm of moths descend! Ramsey has a game of cricket with the Indian crew then we eat dinner on the beach. A very relaxing day although a little too relaxing for Ramsey!

Next day we set sail at 08:00. Another morning of sailing before lunch on the water then we are on our way to Varanasi... which we will continue next time as we need to go and have dinner (we are writing this from Nepal but don't have time to give full update).